FoodLost & Found

10 offbeat finds in Usera

30 January 2018
A derelict building occupied by a destruction of ferrel cats

Do you have bread?

Yes.

Normal bread?

No.

We chuckled at this short exchange between an old Spanish man and a young Chinese shopkeeper. It was a frank conversation that I imagine occurs frequently in the barrio of Usera, also known as Madrid’s Chinatown. Many South American immigrants are represented here too, comprising around half of the neighbourhood’s immigrant population, but it wasn’t always so multicultural.

Only in the last couple of decades have Usera’s people and streetscape become so eclectic. One elderly lady in Mercado Los Arrayanes was telling us that she’d never tried Chinese food until recently, but that she really likes it. Her store was located two aisles away from this gem…

1. THE NO-FRILLS MARKET BAR

I love no-frills bars, especially when they’re in a market. Bar El Recreo II inside Mercado Los Arrayanes serves all the Spanish bar classics, and their stools are surprisingly comfortable. Not every corner of the market is so thriving, however: the empty unit I took this photo through was once a fruit and veg store, and their decorative dried pumpkins still hang from the rafters on pieces of string.

Bar El Recreo II

Bar El Recreo II

A knife sharpener in an all but vacated corner of the market

A knife sharpener in an all-but-vacated corner of the market

Empty units in Mercado Los Arranayes

A whole aisle of empty units in Mercado Los Arrayanes

Address: Calle Antonio Velasco Zazo, 4

2. THE INCONSPICUOUS CHURCH

Built in 1940, the Iglesia de Cristo Rey stood tall in a quiet part of Madrid. It had a profound presence, with the sun beaming onto all four sides and a spacious graveyard to its right.

Parroquia de Cristo Rey, early 20th century

Iglesia de Cristo Rey, early 20th century

Around 75 years later, you’d be forgiven for walking past this church without noticing it, and a rectory now sits on top of the old graveyard.

The old facade of Parroquia de Cristo Rey

The old facade of Iglesia de Cristo Rey

The sun no longer beams through most of its porthole windows, but that doesn’t stop the church getting hot during summer (hence the no-frills wall fans).

Parroquia de Cristo Rey

Iglesia de Cristo Rey

Address: Calle del Amor Hermoso, 15

3. THE HOUSE FROM UP

Madrid has thousands of houses that are straight out of the Disney film Up – a striking sign of rapid change. This one is just around the corner from find #1…

An old casa baja at Calle de Almendrales, 18

An old casa baja

Address: Calle de Almendrales, 18

4. THE LITTLE CHIRINGUITO

Bar Chipirón is decorated so eccentrically it’s like a portal into the owner’s mind, which is presumably somewhere on a sunny, windswept coast. I suddenly found myself transported to the rugged coast of North-East England, sitting by the fish quay with my granda, who was a merchant sailor, showing me how to tie knots. I thought for a moment that I could smell fish and chips, but then a large, smoking tapa of pigs’ ears emerged – not quite what I expected at a marisquería.

The coast-inspired facade of Bar Chipiron

The coast-inspired facade of Bar Chipirón

Sealife tiles at the bar

Sealife tiles at the bar

Welcome aboard!

Welcome aboard!

The boat-themed Bar Chipiron

The boat-themed Bar Chipirón

5. THE HOUSE THAT BELONGS TO A DESTRUCTION OF CATS

That’s right, the collective noun for cats is a destruction. At first, this large corner house seems abandoned, but there appears to be someone living in the top floor. I hope they like cats.

A derelict building occupied by a destruction of ferrel cats

A derelict building occupied by a destruction of feral cats

Address: Calle Julio Merino, 24

6. FISH HEAD SOUP

The food at Lao Tou is exactly what it says on the tin, and it’s absolutely delicious. When you go, peep into the kitchen downstairs – it’s like a busy street food stall in China. Also have a sneaky glance inside their open storeroom upstairs – it’s a giant grandmother’s pantry of ingredients most of us have never seen.

Fish head soup at Lao Tou

Fish head soup at Lao Tou

7. THE NO-FRILLS ECUADORIAN JOINT

Fanáticos del Sabor has a pool hall, plastic-covered tables in the dining area, and a landlocked beach bar out back. The food here is cheap and delicious, as you can see from the illustrative photos by the bar, but the star dishes are the stews: an alchemic blend of corn and slow-cooked meat, served with a coriander-heavy avocado salad. The owners are lovely, and the constant presence of their whole family adds to the upbeat vibe.

Ecuadorian food at Fanaticos del Sabor

Ecuadorian food at Fanaticos del Sabor

8. THE TWO-STOREY MEDITERRANEAN VILLA

Squeezed into a relatively narrow gap between two large apartment buildings, this villa is like something you’d expect to see in Malaga’s El Palo district rather than Madrid – right down to the lemon tree and creeping grape vines.

Calle de Ferroviarios, 61

The Mediterranean villa

Address: Calle de Ferroviarios, 61

9. CLUB GRANADA

I can’t find any information about this seemingly derelict club, but an internet search led me to this curious collection of no-frills club photos. The seedy signage of Club Granada clearly caught the eye of this photographer in exactly the same way it did mine.

Closed: Club Granada

Closed? Club Granada

Address: Calle Monederos, 19

10. COLOMBIA EVERYTHING

It must have taken a while to build up this vast collection of Colombian memorabilia, especially the musical instruments and cows’ heads. The food at La Fonda de Colombia is hearty, rugged and well seasoned, and the place fills up quickly – so get there early!

Restaurante la Fonda de Colombia

Restaurante la Fonda de Colombia


This article was inspired by our marvellous team of no-frills Detectives, who are always on the hunt for the no-frills and the overlooked. Do you have what it takes to uncover Madrid’s lesser-known corners? Then join our Secret Detectives Club.

You may also like

Leave a Comment

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

WANT MORE NO-FRILLS?

 

SUBSCRIBE TO OUR MONTHLY NEWSLETTER…