MNF > Articles by: Madrid No Frills

Madrid No Frills

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El Gran Apagón (The Great Power Cut)

Author & photos: Leah Pattem While the world wondered all day what we’d been up to during over 11 hours of a historic power cut, just now they’re finally getting an answer. Some of us were stranded on trains, trapped in lifts or stuck in traffic jams — but the emergency services never failed. At Atocha station, thousands endured what might have been the worst day of their year, while others managed to find small moments of joy: catching up on journaling, entertaining their kids, making the best of an unexpected end to their holiday in Madrid. Traffic lights were out, but cars didn’t speed. Drivers slowed and pedestrians crossed in an unspoken agreement of safety. In my barrio of Lavapiés – one of the last places in Madrid to regain power – the weight of the world lifted. It was like a summer fiesta, warm beer, notes and coins,...
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Madrid’s bin strike explained

Since Monday, you might have noticed we’ve been dealing with a growing rubbish crisis as bin collectors have gone on an indefinite strike.
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Photographers of the Future 2025 course enrolment now open!

- Affordable in-person Photography course in the heart of Lavapiés, Madrid - Three 2.5-hour evening classes over three consecutive weeks - All levels welcome, no professional equipment needed - Language: English - In-house drinks and networking after every class - Early-bird price until 31 March
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Giant abandoned bodega in Valencia set to become brand-new barrio

Author and photos: Leah Pattem An abandoned winery the size of a football stadium stands on the coast of Valencia in the northern area of Alboraia. Built in 1969 during the region’s industrial heyday, this redbrick complex once held up to 32 million litres of wine. It was among the first Spanish wineries to export abroad and, at its peak, a quarter of all wine leaving Spain passed through here. Locally known as the ‘Kremlin’, the winery has been disused since 2008, when production moved to Chiva. In years since, it’s become a magnet for urban explorers. In 2022, the council briefly opened it for heritage tours but, beyond this fleeting appreciation, the complex has largely fallen into disrepair, sparking debate over the future of the barrio. This year, the town of Alboraia approved the ‘Vinival’ project, a redevelopment plan set to breathe new life into the complex. The project...
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Photos of Paiporta four months after the catastrophic Valencia floods

Author and photos: Leah Pattem I’ve seen very little on the news about progress in the flood-hit areas of Valencia, so I was curious to head back there to report on this myself. The clean-up operations by volunteers and public services have been incredible. At first glance, life appears to have resumed to relative normality but Paiporta so quiet. The town has been working hard to recover in time for the traditional barrio Fallas celebrations. The mud has mostly been cleared, and facades have been repainted, but traces of the flood remain: brown dust still stains the cracks in the pavement, and the record-high water mark is visible on abandoned buildings. Shiny, brand-new cars – mostly white – line every street. Windows and doors in both residential buildings and garages have been replaced, but around half of the town’s businesses seem to have shut down for good, including Bar Sandra....
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The hidden crisis of ‘Invisible Evictions’

Across Spain, we're facing an undeniable affordable housing crisis, where rent hikes consistently outstrip salary increases. More households than ever are struggling with housing costs, spending over 30% of our income on rent. In the whole of Madrid Centro, this is the case, yet national rent regulation laws aimed at high-tension areas are not enforced here as our regional right-wing government has opted out.
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New Year’s Eve Portrait of the Oldest Bakery in Madrid

Just around the corner from Sol, Antigua Pastelería El Pozo, on Calle Pozo, has been serving traditional pastries since 1830. The very frills bakery has kept its original frilly decor this whole time and the pastry chefs continue to use artisanal techniques.
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“If being homosexual was not a crime in Africa, we would not be in Spain”

Author and photographer: Sou Harris At the age of 10, Ali Useni, who prefers to be called Alex, was forced out of school so as not to “infect” his classmates. He had told his aunt, who he lived with after his mother passed, that when he grew up, he would like to marry a man. This confession would be the beginning of years of physical and psychological abuse that pushed him to embark on a dangerous journey from Cameroon, across North Africa and the Mediterranean, until arriving in Spain in search of safety. Cameroon is one of 64 countries that, according to the International Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual, Trans and Intersex Association (ILGA), criminalises homosexuality – almost half of these countries are in Africa. Prison sentences can vary between six months and five years for those who have consensual sexual relations with another person of the same sex. While Sudan repealed...
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Celebrating the Crisp Factories of Madrid

Madrid’s fábricas de patatas fritas are the savoury version of Willy Wonka’s sugary realm. Shop windows are piled high with golden crisps, and neon signs and retro toys mingle with ornate ceramic tiles and vintage fonts. These shimmering potato mountains catch the attention of every passerby as they crisp up further in the sun-soaked window display.
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Photographs of Valencia’s two historic floods: 1957 vs 2024

Going through the archives of Valencia's 1957 DANA, I realised I'd taken hauntingly similar photos just last week in Paiporta, so I decided to make direct comparisons by placing the images next to each other. What this compilation demonstrates is that the same mistakes have been made twice. Predatory urban planning ignoring the limits of our planet, combined with institutional incompetence has led to the destruction of thousands of lives, again.
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“Soy Tribulete 7”: Un documental en proceso, lanza una campaña de crowdfunding

Han vendido tu casa a un fondo buitre que, de repente, quiere echarte. ¿Qué harías tú? Las vecinas de Tribulete 7 emprenden un camino de resistencia que las llevará a convertirse en un símbolo de lucha por el derecho a la vivienda en el barrio.  El documental muestra cómo se han ganado el apoyo de todo el barrio, resisitiendo de una manera inspiradora y nunca vista antes.