Food

In a neighbourhood where 43.5% of the population was born abroad, Lavapiés has developed one of Spain's most diverse and dynamic food scenes – yet it remains surprisingly overlooked.

One of the things l love the most about Madrid are the senseless yet beautiful contradictions it serves your way. One of our most famous dishes is the bocata de calamares despite being 350km away from the coast, and ordering ‘un mini’ will get you a litre of beer, to name a couple.

It’s the rainiest March Madrid has seen in decades, but the downpour hasn’t stopped the steady stream of people heading toward a small mosque near Calle Mesón de Paredes. Just before sunset, the doors of Mezquita Baitul Mukarram open. Umbrellas close, shoes come off and Glovo bags are left by the entrance. Inside, the blue carpet is soft and warm, and the barrio’s chaos fades into a quiet rhythm of prayer and preparation.

Madrid’s fábricas de patatas fritas are the savoury version of Willy Wonka’s sugary realm. Shop windows are piled high with golden crisps, and neon signs and retro toys mingle with ornate ceramic tiles and vintage fonts. These shimmering potato mountains catch the attention of every passerby as they crisp up further in the sun-soaked window display.

"My abuelo opened this place 90 years ago, before the Spanish Civil War. During the war, people used to come here to collect their rations of flour and my abuelo would have to sign their rations cards.

Restaurante El Bierzo in the heart of Chueca celebrates 50 years of existence this month. Run by 80-year-old Miguel Gonzales Sastre, El Bierzo stands firm as a rock and is one of the few restaurants in the area to serve homemade, traditional Spanish dishes, with a menu that has been the same for half a century.