Author and photos: Abbas Asaria
Madrid’s fábricas de patatas fritas are the no-frills savoury version of Willy Wonka’s chocolate realm. Shop windows are piled high with golden crisps, and neon signs and retro toys mingle with ornate ceramic tiles and vintage fonts. The shimmering potato mountains catch the attention of every passerby as they crisp up further in the sun-soaked window display.
The crisp tradition has deep roots. In the 1960s, crisps were often made in churrerías, and many of today’s fábricas de patatas fritas trace their origins to these establishments, while others had humbler origins. Take Guillén Hermanos, a factory celebrating its 60th year: it began as a family affair in a modest kitchen. Nieves sliced and fried the potatoes, while her husband and his brother (The Guillén Hermanos themselves – Jesús and Ramiro) pedalled through Madrid’s streets, hawking bags of crisps from their bikes. Eventually, success led to a moped, then a shop, and finally a place in Madrid’s pop culture.
Today, crisps reign as the city’s go-to tapa. They’re often adorned with a precariously perched mussel or anchovy, with a drizzle of briny canned juice for extra flavour. The challenge is to devour the lot before the crisps lose their crunch – a fleeting joy that adds to the charm of this quintessentially Madrid snack.
Abbas Asaria is a British chef and food writer based in Madrid. Follow him on Instagram, where he shares his vibrant recipes inspired by his adventures around the world, and especially Madrid’s best no-frills establishments.
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