Author: Leah Pattem / Photos: stills from Madrid EXT by Juan Cavestany
Juan Cavestany, 56, was immortalised as a child in the sun-bleached mural in the corner of Plaza Cascorro in El Rastro, painted more than 40 years ago by his dad. Now, after decades working as a journalist around the world, he returns with outsider eyes, able to capture the iconic elements of a vanishing city – the Madrid I’ve also spent the last 10 years documenting.
I had the fortune of having a coffee with him last week in one of my favourite no-frills bars, where I filmed Juan himself in the style of his film, Madrid EXT (Madrid Exterior).
His two-hour cinematic ode to Madrid is a stunning work, driven by a deep, bass-heavy electronic soundtrack composed from samples recorded on the streets of the city – including the iconic afilador. The rumbling music transports us to hundreds of locations across Madrid and guides us through a city in ruthless transition: retro signage being dismantled, fourth-generation shop owners posing for the last time, abuelos quietly dipping their churros into thick dark chocolate.
Juan zooms in on people whose slow-paced working lives gave them the time and space to nurture their eccentricities, decorating their workplaces like second homes – something we rarely see anymore in this fast-paced world.
This film took four years to research, record and produce, but the process began by wandering through the city with a camera, collecting hundreds of hours of footage – exactly as I do. Guille Galván then composed the soundtrack, which is now on Spotify, and I recommend listening to it while walking around the city – it has the power to carry you to a space and time you had never experienced before.
Madrid is hellbent on looking forward yet haunted by all the souls it leaves behind. The nostalgia evoked in this film is both triggering and euphoric, and so unmistakably Madrileño. Madrid EXT is a masterpiece by and for Madrileñes – born and adopted – past, present, and future. It’s also so Madrid No Frills, and I love it.
Out in cinemas now. More info on the Madrid EXT IG page here.
Support this platform for just €1 per month
You may have noticed that I don’t run ads, nor accept sponsors or investors. Independence is everything and what I decide to publish will not be influenced by those in a position of capital, privilege or power. Therefore, I invite only you to support this platform and only you to help me keep doing what I do. Thank you, Leah.
Leave a Comment