If simply wandering around the Rastro gives you a buzz, then a visit here will make you feel like you’ve plugged yourself straight into the national grid.

Mercado de la Cebada has been through some ups and downs over the last couple of centuries, but what didn’t kill it made it adapt.

Botellón is a favourite pastime in action, but it’s seriously testing the innate Spanish tolerance for noise and is causing friction across all of society.