Madrid No Frills

No Frills

Madrid’s no-frills station bar

7 February 2017

Since 1961, El Brillante has been the first and last port of call for millions of Atocha's passengers. A first caña stood at the bar sets the tone for the rest of your stay, and that final bocadillo de calamares leaves you with a belly full of fondness for Madrid.

History

The thriving scrap metal collectors

25 January 2017

Mayorista de Chatarra is a local scrap metal dealer in Lavapiés that’s been going strong for over 100 years, and especially for the last ten.

No Frills

Bar En Ca’ Kiko: everyone’s favourite Rastro bar

13 January 2017

If simply wandering around the Rastro gives you a buzz, then a visit here will make you feel like you’ve plugged yourself straight into the national grid.

No Frills

Pastelería Salamat: the little Syrian bakery in Lavapiés

20 December 2016

Owned by a Syrian baker called Jihad, Pastelería Salamat has the best selection of baklava I've found in Madrid – and some amazing Syrian flatbread too.

Pescadería Eduardo Pastor, a family business spanning two generations, has seen a lot of change during its 52 years here.

No Frills

Mercado de la Cebada: the 138-year-old Madrid market that stays true to its roots

21 November 2016

Mercado de la Cebada has been through some ups and downs over the last couple of centuries, but what didn’t kill it made it adapt.

Ajenjo Café: Malasaña’s best kept secret

25 September 2016

The dust may have settled in Ajenjo Café but, with nearly 40 years under its belt, the place has developed a ghostly charm that fills your head with visions of its heyday.

Culture

The 123-year-old ‘museum’ of springs

18 September 2016

Muelles Ros - selling exclusively springs - has been run by the same family for three generations, since 1894.

Botellón on Ribera de Curtidores during Fiesta San Cayetano

Culture

Botellón: Spain’s love-hate relationship with drinking in the street

11 September 2016

Botellón is a favourite pastime in action, but it’s seriously testing the innate Spanish tolerance for noise and is causing friction across all of society.

Tinned tuna, sardines, anchovies and more in Lisbon

No Frills

Is tinned food really better than the fresh stuff?

13 August 2016

The tinned food craze is sweeping the hipster capitals of the world but Spain has long been aware of the treasure inside these little tins.

Hidden bungalow on the patio of Sala Mirador

History

The secret Mediterranean patio in Lavapiés

2 August 2016

Hidden deep within Lavapiés, and almost always closed, this stunning cobbled patio took some serious discovering.

Upstairs on the mezzanine is the dining area with antique paintings

No Frills

The bar that hasn’t closed in 40 years

25 July 2016

Cafetería Hinojar has been open 24 hours a day every day for 40 years and hasn't changed at all.

No Frills

The Lavapiés sweets and spices shops

24 July 2016

Wander around Lavapiés' maze of connected high streets and find dozens of Asian spice stores firmly grounded. Gentrification is going to need to work hard to push these neighbours out.

No Frills

Mercado de la Cebada’s no-frills seafood party

21 July 2016

Every Saturday, all of the seafood stalls group together and transform the mercado's aisles into electric avenues of seafood bars.

Corrala in the Centro Cultural La Corrala, on Calle Carlos Arniches 3, La Latina

History

Explore Madrid’s charming workers’ housing

17 July 2016

Corralas encapsulate the soul of Spanish urban living, which boomed when Madrid was declared capital of Spain in 1606.

No Frills

Bar El Boqueron: the last marisquería in Lavapiés

5 July 2016

In the candy-coloured streets of this multicultural barrio lies a traditional Madrid institution serving up some of the best seafood around. It's the last marisquería in Lavapiés but step inside, back to 1949.