MNF > Articles by: Madrid No Frills

Madrid No Frills

Kiosko de Horchata Miguel y José
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The last horchata kiosk in Madrid

My obsession with horchata began exactly where it should: on the coast of Valencia, surrounded by orange blossom and flamingos. On my return to Madrid, I vowed never to rest until I'd found the best horchata in town, and there it was – as it has been for 74 years – in a little roadside kiosk run by the fifth generation of the same family.
Lavapiés in the 1980s
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Lavapiés in the 1980s

When you first glimpse Marivi Ibarrola's casually composed photographs of Lavapiés in the 1980s, you feel as if very little has changed. But stare for longer and you'll see some profound differences: the Tabacalera no longer emits smoke from its chimney, the anarchists have been gentrified out of their squats, and cinemas have been demolished to pave the way for the Lavapiés we hang out in today.
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No-frills bars in peculiar places (Vol. I)

Much like a municipal bin, a no-frills bar is never more than 50 metres away from you in the centre of Madrid. Going for an impromptu caña was never easier, be it at a train station, on a train, in a hospital or even next to a funeral parlour.
Igorot people and their cattle
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The ‘human zoo’ of Madrid

An entire village was built to exhibit these unfamiliar people in their 'natural habitat', with thousands of curious spectators paying for a glimpse into their exotic world. Welcome to the darkest corner of Retiro Park: Madrid's erstwhile 'human zoo'.
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Bar El Jamón: the Godfather of Lavapiés

In the thick of bustling Indian restaurants and foreign food stores, a jazzy facade with bold retro lettering stands out from the crowd. This neighbourhood veteran is Bar El Jamón, the Godfather of Lavapiés.
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Madrid city in bloom

The Spanish spring is finally upon us and the almond and cherry trees are blossoming! This spectacular honey-scented force of nature only lasts a few weeks, but don't worry, you don't have to hurriedly plan a trip out to Andalusia – you can see it right here in Madrid. Here are six places to find them…
Buen viaje, compañero
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RIP Casto, and long live El Palentino

Casto Herrezuelo, co-owner of El Palentino in Malasaña, passed away this week at the age of 79. Having manned the bar there for 60 years, he'd become a national treasure without even knowing it.
These chairs were confiscated during the war
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The vintage barber’s that survived being on the frontline

Peluquería Luis Martín is one of Madrid's last remaining vintage barbers. It survived the frontline of the Spanish Civil war, the requisition of its beautiful chairs, and the untimely death of Don Luís Martín himself. Yet, 93 years later, and still having never given in to the hipster beard, this niche men's hairdresser's is still going strong.
The entrance to one of the wings
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The story of Madrid’s most controversial prison

La cárcel de Carabanchel, Europe's biggest and most notorious prison until its closure in 1998, was built under General Franco's watch. Between 1940 and 1944, every wall was raised and every metal door was fitted by the same prisoners who would eventually do their time here. None dared lay a brick loosely or leave a screw untightened – this prison was a star-shaped fortress, and nobody was escaping.
Leche de tigre (a seafood soup a lot like ceviche)
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Sabores del Mundo: Peruvian soul food with a conscience

In the darkest days of Spain's financial crisis, Catalina Lescano Álvarez and a team of unemployed women from Peru and Colombia set up a little restaurant in Madrid's Oporto neighbourhood. Going by the name of Sabores del Mundo, it was a brave and passionate project with two key objectives: to create employment for migrant women and to provide a filling meal every day to vulnerable members of the local community.
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La Figal: the charming 1940s bar opposite the Brutalist church

One of the best things about this accidentally retro bar is how much fun it is to explore. There are secret, time-bending portals connecting the endless labyrinth of dining rooms… or so it seems. When the same short, middle-aged waiter in a waistcoat kept appearing every time we entered a new room, we wondered how else he could have got there so quickly.
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Casa de Baños: washing with Madrid’s homeless

I've always been curious to see inside the Casa de Baños in Lavapiés, and the opportunity finally arose when we returned to our flat after a week away to find that the boiler had exploded. As you'd imagine, very little gets done over the Christmas period, so we were to embark on yet another fascinating no-frills adventure, and what an insight it's been.
Merry Christmas from the waiter
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These vintage Spanish Christmas cards reveal clues about the past

This small collections of Spanish vintage Christmas cards celebrate Spain's traditional occupations, but look closely at the design details of each card. These beautifully ornate illustrations give us a fascinating insight into the bygone era of these time-honoured professions, especially into those that are now obsolete.
The kiosk at Bilbao metro
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The death of the Spanish kiosk and the invasion of the biased newsfeed

Sergio is the 4th generation of his family to run this kiosk by Opera, and just as his ancestors did, he stocks every national newspaper. There are no echo-chamber algorithms here – not even the positioning of each newspaper is strategic. At Sergio's news stand, you can see how the rest of the world thinks.
Plaza Mayor around 1950
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A nostalgic voyage to Madrid’s winter wonderland

Under a blanket of snow, I imagine Madrid to be as silent as the night. Not even a gust of wind could echo through the streets, never mind the infamous Madrileño hum. For those of us who arrived in Madrid in the last decade, the time-travelling journey that we're about to embark on feels a little make-believe, but trust me – this really happened.