Bar El Boqueron: the last marisquería in Lavapiés

In the candy-coloured streets of this multicultural barrio lies a traditional Madrid institution serving up some of the best seafood around. It’s the last marisquería in Lavapiés but step inside, back to 1949…

Horses and carts were still being used to collect Lavapiés’ rubbish when this bar opened!

… said one of the regulars. It’s that kind of place: where elderly locals chip in on your conversation whether you want them to or not, and I love it. A lot of Madrid No Frills’ articles came from such chitchat.

I’m a sucker for Andalusia-style tiles, especially these hand-painted ones from Spain’s famous ceramics town of Talavera de la Reina – a tiny riverside town in the region of Toledo.

The griddle is front of house, so when you order a ración of sweet, juicy prawns, watch it get weighed on the old-fashioned dial scales and then sizzle on the grill manned by owner Pablo. He’s a fella of few words, but always keen to point out a framed newspaper article about El Boquerón from some 10 years ago. Fresh oysters are also served here, adding a touch of glamour for a very no-frills price.