The death of the Spanish bar and the invasion of the square plate
Why are so many iconic no-frills Spanish bars closing, and what does this mean for the future of Spain?
Cervecería Azul y Blanco: a no-frills bar that’s accidentally become retro
Cervecería Azul y Blanco takes its name from everyone's favourite Mediterranean colour combination, but as its bold colours fade to dark grey and dusty pink, this little corner bar slips into a bygone era and has become totally kitsch.
El Rincón de Marco: Lavapiés’ foodie portal to Cuba
One end of Calle Cabestreros opens out onto the buzzing 24-hour Plaza Nelson Mandela so you'd be forgiven for not paying much attention to the opposite end. But illuminating the dimly lit end of the street with a distinctive dusk-pink glow is a little Cuban bar blasting Caribbean music through its sealed windows.
Madrid’s no-frills station bar
Since 1961, El Brillante has been the first and last port of call for millions of Atocha's passengers. A first caña stood at the bar sets the tone for the rest of your stay, and that final bocadillo de calamares leaves you with a belly full of fondness for Madrid.
Bar En Ca’ Kiko: everyone’s favourite Rastro bar
If simply wandering around the Rastro gives you a buzz, then a visit here will make you feel like you’ve plugged yourself straight into the national grid.
Pastelería Salamat: the little Syrian bakery in Lavapiés
Owned by a Syrian baker called Jihad, Pastelería Salamat has the best selection of baklava I've found in Madrid – and some amazing Syrian flatbread too.
Mercado de la Cebada: the 138-year-old Madrid market that stays true to its roots
Mercado de la Cebada has been through some ups and downs over the last couple of centuries, but what didn’t kill it made it adapt.
Ajenjo Café: Malasaña’s best kept secret
The dust may have settled in Ajenjo Café but, with nearly 40 years under its belt, the place has developed a ghostly charm that fills your head with visions of its heyday.
Is tinned food really better than the fresh stuff?
The tinned food craze is sweeping the hipster capitals of the world but Spain has long been aware of the treasure inside these little tins.
The bar that hasn’t closed in 40 years
Cafetería Hinojar has been open 24 hours a day every day for 40 years and hasn't changed at all.
The Lavapiés sweets and spices shops
Wander around Lavapiés' maze of connected high streets and find dozens of Asian spice stores firmly grounded. Gentrification is going to need to work hard to push these neighbours out.
Mercado de la Cebada’s no-frills seafood party
Every Saturday, all of the seafood stalls group together and transform the mercado's aisles into electric avenues of seafood bars.
Bar El Boqueron: the last marisquería in Lavapiés
In the candy-coloured streets of this multicultural barrio lies a traditional Madrid institution serving up some of the best seafood around. It's the last marisquería in Lavapiés but step inside, back to 1949.