Owned by a Syrian baker called Jihad, Pastelería Salamat has the best selection of baklava I've found in Madrid – and some amazing Syrian flatbread too.
Wander around Lavapiés' maze of connected high streets and find dozens of Asian spice stores firmly grounded. Gentrification is going to need to work hard to push these neighbours out.
In the candy-coloured streets of this multicultural barrio lies a traditional Madrid institution serving up some of the best seafood around. It's the last marisquería in Lavapiés but step inside, back to 1949.