Untold Stories

We need to talk about Madrid’s ‘Tourist Saviour Complex’

6 August 2020

Just as Spain was finally starting to recover from its last financial crisis, the deepest recession we’ve ever witnessed has only just begun. Poverty, inequality and reliance on precarious work inflicted by a decade of government-imposed austerity remains all around us, and the few tourists that trickle in today – just as their pre-pandemic forefathers did – continue to feed into this.


Trapdoor to Santoña No Frills

28 July 2020

I have three copies of Lonely Planet Spain: one from 1997, another from 2004 and my most recent one from 2014. None of them give Santoña much of a write-up in just the inch of page devoted to the small fishing town. Yet, it’s these overlooked, undocumented pockets of Spain that are the most fascinating because they really are off the beaten path. The authors of Lonely Planet may not realise this, but their guidebooks have a secret chapter: it’s what isn’t in the book that sets forth the real Spain.

ArtLiving Museums

Madrid’s golden age of commercial ceramic art

20 July 2020

Welcome to the golden age of ceramic art that took Madrid by storm, until the dictatorship and renovation works meant that all these beautiful old works of art were covered, sealed up and entombed for a future accidental renaissance which is happening right now.


Seven no-frills decades of Estrecho’s Bar Los Pepes

10 July 2020

It’s mid-morning by the time sunlight illuminates the grey facade of this no-frills gem in Estrecho, but the neighbours have been visiting Los Pepes since sunrise, just as they’ve done for years for their desayuno of churros and bracing café con leche, writes Juan Carlo.

Living Museums

Fighting for the future of El Rastro

6 July 2020

Last Sunday, hundreds of market stall holders occupied the streets of the Rastro to defend their right to reopen their stalls and to preserve an ancient Madrid tradition. The same leafy street, lined with numbered buttons marking the location of each stall, was suddenly bustling again but with cries, chants and a live klezmer version of Bella Ciao. 


The MNF University course for Bloggers Of The Future!

1 July 2020

The MNF Course for Bloggers of the Future is a series of four workshops which will equip you with the wide range of skills needed for socially conscious blogging: in-depth investigating, engaging writing, strong photography & editing, powerful social media, ethics, legalities and self-care.

Untold Stories

#Regularización Ya: The Spain movement calling for an end to institutional racism

30 June 2020

Immigrant exploitation and even slavery is all around us. Immigrants pick our vegetables and keep them cheap. They take care of our elderly and give us free time. They clean our hospitals, deliver our food, build our homes and allow us to stay in them during the pandemic. Their institutional exploitation must stop, and that is exactly what Regularización Ya are here to do. 


Map created under lockdown locates all graffiti artworks in Tetuán

16 June 2020

Remember when we were only allowed to stroll within one kilometre of our home, and when no bars, no restaurants and only a few shops were open? A beauty of being restricted to roaming nothing but the streets is that it led to one woman to documenting the open-air art gallery on her doorstep in the neighbourhood of Tetuán. 


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